Bikaner Havelies
"If dreams are
cast in stones or if stones can sing they would be like
the exteriors and interiors of Bikaner havelies"
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Bikaner is situated in the north-west of Rajasthan and
it can legitimately boast of some unique architectural
marvels of India. It has an ancient fort unparallel in
its splendour. It can boast of many attractions for
anyone interested in culture or art or architecture.
Apart from Junagarh fort, Jain temples like Bhandasar
temple, Neminath temple, Adeshwar temple are simply
adorable. Lallgarh Palace is built in Victorian style
but its stone and wood carvings are typical combinations
of Mughal and Rajput art developing a typical bikaneri
flavor of architecture. Carvings find best expression in
Bikaneri havelies. Havelies are marvels in home
architecture. Such havelies or residential houses do not
exist anywhere in the world. They are the pride of
Bikaner, says great author and philosopher, Aldous
Huxley. They are situated in narrow lanes in the old
city. Splendid abodes can be seen in the midst of
streets that look serpent like and peaceful. They are
marvelous mansions made of red stone and stand
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They
stand spreading magic around. Their jharokhas (casements),
entrances, latticed windows, divankhanas,
Gumaharias or basements, are exotic. The -red stone
gives a look that is like a red carpet forcing one to
look and admire. The havelies were the residence of
wealthy merchants who had a fancy for beauty and art.
Nine months in a year they lived in far off lands to
earn money and then came to this city to rest and enjoy
and build havelies and live in them, show their wealth
and status, their love , fascination for architecture
and colours. The oldest haveli is perhaps four hundred
years old but most of them are hundred years in age or
around it. That is why they indicate a pattern of their
own. They charm each and everyone who happens to see
them. Their exterior is dominated by the jharokhas at
once charming and capable of keeping spellbound. The
jharokhas are exquisite carvings made alive by artistic
creaters. They marvel in the beauty that lies in them
and not merely in beholder's eyes. They are generally
six feet long and three feet wide proving that small is
beautiful. |
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Smaller
they are, the more beautiful they are likely to look.
They form the most picturesque part of the haveli face.
They also indicate the love for nature these creators of
havelies had. leaves and flowers decorate every jharokha
giving it an astonishing and pleasant natural effect.
Jali or stone with small holes create unbounded beauty.
The most famous cluster of havelies is the Rampuria
Group of Havelies. Built by Balujee Chalva under
instructions from Rampuria family its carvings show
surprising skill. Rampuria havelis are many in number
and are big in size and being located at nearly adjacent
positions make great impression almost like the great
havelies of Jaisalmer, the Patwa havelies. Their appears
an undeniable similarity between the two havelies
perhaps because both of them were mainly conceived and
built by Vishwakarma clan. The interior scheme of
decoration of the two havelies is very different. The
Patwa havelies were built earlier and emphasized on
exterior decoration and minute carvings on jaisalmeri
stone while the Rampuria havelies were built of dulmera
stone. The jaisalmeri stone is yellow in colour. The
dulmera stone is red. |
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Both are
soft redstones. Exquisite and minute carvings come
naturally to both the stones. The patwa havelies have
more carvings in the interior also. The Rampuria
havelies are decorated with golden work of the highest
quality. They have dankhanas (Drawing Room) which
take us to the mughal and rajput period of amalgamation
and synthesis. They have Victorian influence in
abundance. The wood carvings in Rampuria Havelies are
more exquisite and are far more beautiful. Another
distinguishing feature is that Rampuria havelies have
diverse exterior and each haveli has a pattern of its
own. The Patwa havelies have more intricate carvings but
the Rampuria havelies show a more varied face.
The most beautiful carvings on the face side are those
of Rikhji Bagri ki Haveli situated near mohta
chowk. Bikaner. It is very little known and is small in
size. It is a poetry written on stone. Such artistic
exterior is unparallel and perhaps does not exist
anywhere on earth. The other and much better known
havelies including the great patwa havelies fade when
the carving of this haveli show off the minutest details
in a most delicate manner. Be it a peacock, an elephant,
a flower or a pot, every thing is natural. living and
just enchanting. The more you look at them the more joy
you get out of the view. It is a beauty for ever,
eternal and irreplaceable. If dreams are cast in stones
or if stones can sing they would be like the exterior of
Rikhji bagri ki haveli. Arched entrances and captivating
jharokhas look more beautiful because of the flowers
embossed on them which are more beautiful than the real
flowers. |
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Another
cluster of havelies which attracts the onlooker is the
cluster of Daga chowk havelies. There are a number of
havelies in daga chowk. A salient feature of these
havelies is the fact that they are scattered like the
scattered clouds. They are adorned with carvings of
flowers. The rose is there with its freshness. The lotus
flowers are there with their charm, Other flowers are
there with their leaves. The walls are all flowery and
take the viewer in a world of nature and its infinite
spelendours. The carvings on jharokhas are simply
artistic to say the least. They are exquisite. They look
like projected pieces of priceless jewelery. They take
the viewer to a cocktail of architectural excellence.
Daga family had a fascination for deevankhanas. The
deewankhanas or drawing rooms gave prestige to the
family. They were decorated with taste and were their
show cases. They were a treasury of art and a matter of
their pride. They preserved valuable murals also. They
exhibited old and contemporary faces of Indian painting.
They also demonstrate the increasing English influence.
The European influence is more evident in the haveli of
Bhairondan Kothari. Its exterior is not so
attractive or artistic but once you enter. it you are
just enamored with its charm, it excels in marble work.
It imparts fascinating beauty to its floors. Marble
tiles are studded in the floors of the haveli. Marble
magic is evident in every corner. It is the beautiful
poem of Kamayani written by soft marble stone. Its
marble work is unmatched and can match marble work any
where in any part of world. It is this consideration
which has forced some to include this haveli as one of
the most beautiful houses of India, one of the fifty
most beautiful. |
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Another
remarkable haveli near this haveli is the haveli of
Poonam Chand Kothari. Its exterior carvings are as
beautiful as those of Daga havelies. Its wood work is
better. Havelies of near by dhadhon ka chowck are also
beautiful. Chandmal dhadha haveli is very beautiful in
the eyes of some critics. Mohta havelies in Banthia
chowk are all important. Havelies in mava patti
and kothari Mohalla and those in dammani chowk deserve
special mention.
In every haveli the dankhana is the most adored room and
most prestigious too. The guests are received here. It
is significant to mention that every haveli has two
dankhanas. One for men and another for women and these
are situated at the main entrance of the haveli. There
may a few havelies who are not big enough to accommodate
two dankhanas. seperate space is kept in the same
dankhana for ladies and gents. |
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A
dankhana generally has six pillars. Every pillar has a
glass mirror with gold frame. This frame is engrossed
with flowers mostly roses. The flowers of various
colours illuminate the diwankhana and add to its beauty.
The flowers and the leaves adore all walls of the
diwankhnna. They may be curved on stone or may be
painted, they give illusion of nature and natural
beauty. Then every diwankhana has paintings of gods and
goddesses. Lord Ganesh and Laxmi and Parwati are the
most prevalent among them. Lord Shiv and Bhagwan Ram and
Lord Krishana are the other Godswho generally decorate
this room. Taken as a whole, the havelis contain a
number of paintings of Radha Krishan and Ram Sita also.
Apart from religious deities and flowers, the leaves
fruits like apples, grapes, oranges and bananas also
find place in most havelies in Bikaner. They had great
fascination for peacocks and parrots and these are shown
hovering over the fruits. The ceiling of a diwankhana
was always beautiful and artistic. It was a wooden
ceiling generally and was embossed with flowers with six
or eight leaves. Some of the havelies have golden work
on the ceiling and some like the Bhairnodan kothari
haveli and Rampuria havelis excel in this type of work.
The owners of the havelies were mostly religious people
and every haveli has a temple.
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Every
haveli has at least a second story. A mol or mahal is
the most beautiful and artistic portion of this part and
is normally adorned with golden work of carving . Mahal
is the symbol of status. lt is rich in carvings. Golden
carvings are the ardour of the mahal because it is here
that dancing girls used to give performances in mahfils
(parties). The richer the mahfil.the richer is the owner
in the eyes of the society. The paintings of Indra ,the
king of heaven sitting on his throne or his elephant
with beautiful fairies dancing .enhances the beauty of
the mol linking it with Hindu fables and stories and
myths. Some mols contain valuable master pieces of art.
Most of the rooms in Sampatlal Agarwal haveli are
adorned with large priceless paintings of Raja Ravi
Verma. They are as old as eighteen hundred ninety four.
Large courtyards, sals, and oras turn
these ancient houses into depositors of history, art and
architecture in their own small way. Their another
feature is the impressive beautifully painted ceilings.
Some havelis have ceilings which instantly attract the
viewer, earn his appreciation, amaze him, delight him.
Every haveli consists of a number of rooms, big and
small, made for special purposes and suitable for those
purposes. A sal is a rather half open multi purpose room
for internal use of the family. An ora is a small bed
room again for the members of the family. It is also a
box room. Barsali is the passage from enterce to the
interior portion of the haveli. It is follwed by Angan
or chowk. Angan is surrounded by kitchen, Pujaghar, and
water store or parindha. Almost every haveli has more
than one stories. Sometimes five to six but normally
three.
An
interesting feature of havelies is that there are no
urinals in them. This was because water was a scarce
commodity and it was to he utilized with utmost care
andnot a drop of it was to be wasted. There were no
flush latrines. Purity was another consideration. The
pujaghar or temple was to be as away from the urinal
place as possible. The toilets were situated in near by
kotries or large open spaces with only toilet buildings.
The courtyards or boundaries were always there to
surround a kotri. Most of the havelies are situated in
narrow streets in the old city or the walled city.
These havelies are priceless treasures of heritage.
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