Tsomgo (Changu) lake

  A lake at 12,310 ft?  Impossible you will say but it is a fact. Tsomgo(Changu) lake is situated 35 km from Gangtok on the Gangtok - Nathula highway which forms a part of the old trade route from India to China. Before 1962, caravans of mules carrying goods used to ply on this route. The stretch of the route just below Karponang, 15 kms from Gangtok was particularly dangerous. Its steepness resulted in many mules slipping to their death into the ravine below. Karponang

is at an altitude of 10,000 ft, an ascend of 5,000 ft from Gangtok in less than 15 kms.

Slightly less than 10 kms away from Karponang is 15^th Mile or Kyongnosia which lies on a saddle on the Chola Range and from where a panoramic view of part of Gangtok and other surrounding hills can be obtained. The Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary with an area of 31²km located nearby is rich in alpine flora, fauna and avi-fauna. From here onwards to the Tsomgo(Changu) lake, one loses sight of the Khangchendzonga range. The road has less gradient and the vegetation adopts an alpine nature.

About a kilometre ahead of Kyongnosia and about five minutes walk from the roadside is the Tseten Tashi cave which is about twenty feet high and so named after a naturalist of Sikkim who was also the Private Secretary to the Chogyal. There is passage within the cave that leads to its top.

Tsomgo (Changu) lake, which is hardly 20 kms away from the famous Nathula Pass and about 400 kms from Lhasa, falls in the restricted area and hence an Inner Line Permit, which can be obtained from the Police through the Tourism Department or travel agent is required by visitors to visit this place. Foreign nationals are also permitted to visit this lake. Photography is now allowed and in fact parts of few Hindi films have been shot here. Its cool, placid water harmonies with the scenic beauty around which is doubled by its reflection in the lake. A small temple of Lord Shiva is constructed on the lakeside. Primula flowers and' other alpine vegetation grow around the lake, which has an average depth of 50 ft, lend a pristine beauty to this place. A footpath along the lake takes one to a resting shed - a walk of about half a kilometre. During the winter months the lake becomes frozen. The lake itself derives its water from the melting snow on the mountains around, The river Lungtze Chu originates from this lake and meets the Rangpo-chu further down its course. During the olden times, lamas used to study the colour of the water of the lake and forecast the future. If the waters of the lake had a dark tinge, it foreshadowed a year of trouble and unrest in the state. The lake has a few rainbow trout and if you are lucky you may catch a glimpse at them. 

The travel agents and Department of Tourism conducts package tours by bus to this lake at selected months of the year. A bus ticket to Tsomgo(Changu) lake and back costs Rs 150/-. Taxis from Gangtok can also be hired to Tsomgo. A small cab in which not more than 3 passengers are permitted can be hired for Rs 550/- to Tsomgo and back. Hiring of a jeep which can accommodate upto 7 passengers will cost about Rs 900/-. Private vehicles are not permitted to the lake. Rides on yaks and mules are also offered at the lake site. Tea and snacks are available at the dozen of temporary stalls during the tourist season only. Some of the stalls even keep film rolls and offer jackets, snow boots and waterboots on hire. Because of the high altitude, heavy woolens are required to be worn here throughout the year. There is no facility of accommodation for the tourist. It is advisable to visit the lake before noon as usually during the afternoons the weather becomes inclement. Those with breathing problems should avoid exerting themselves too much because of the scarcity of air at this altitude.