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Old Town
The old town is
on the hillside northeast of the fort. It has the Tomb of Ghaus
Muhammad, a Muslim saint. He was a 16th century Afghan prince who
played a key role in Babur's acquisition of the fort. His tomb, of
early Mughal architecture, has hexagonal towers at its four corners
and a dome that was once covered with glazed blue tiles. This tomb,
with its delicate sandstone screens, is a pilgrim place for both
Hindu and Muslims The Tomb of Tansen, nearby, is placed in an
attractive garden setting and is the venue of the annual National
Music Festival in November and December. Tansen, a singer and one of
the "nine jewels" of Emperor Akbar's court, was an exponent of the
dhrupad raag, a very advanced form of Indian classical music.
The dhrupad, which has its roots in the Vedic scriptures, means a
steadfast song. It was Mian Tansen who laid the foundations for
what, in the 19th century, became the Gwalior Gharana, a
style of music noted for its stress on composition and forceful
performance. One of the best-known contemporary exponents of this
Gharana is Ustad Amjad Ali Khan, a renowned sarod player, and also a
Gwaliorite. It is rumoured that chewing the leaves of the tamarind
tree near Tansen's grave improves one voice.
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